Dryer Not Heating? Check These Things Before Calling a Technician

A dryer that tumbles but doesn't heat is one of the most common service calls, and it's also one of the most frequently self-solvable. Before you schedule a technician, there are five things you should check. If you're handy and you own a multimeter, you might fix the problem yourself in an hour. If not, at least you'll be able to describe the issue more precisely when you call.

First: Is It Gas or Electric?

Before troubleshooting, know which type of dryer you have. Peek behind it. If you see a flexible metal gas line connecting to a valve, it's gas. If you only see a thick power cord plugged into a 240-volt outlet, it's electric. The no-heat diagnosis path is different for each.

Check 1: The Circuit Breaker (Electric Dryers)

Electric dryers use two 120-volt legs to provide 240 volts to the heating element. They share a double-pole breaker in your panel. Here's the trick most people miss: one of the two legs can trip while the other stays on. The motor only needs 120 volts, so the dryer will still run — it just won't heat. The breaker looks like it's still on because one of its two switches is still up.

Go to the breaker panel, find the dryer breaker, and push it firmly to the fully OFF position, then back to ON. This resets both legs. About 10 percent of "no heat" calls are resolved at this step.

Check 2: The Lint Screen and Exhaust Vent

This is the biggest one. A dryer with a clogged exhaust vent builds up heat inside the cabinet, trips a safety thermal fuse, and stops heating. The fuse is a one-shot part — once it blows, the dryer will never heat again until you replace the fuse AND clear the airflow restriction that caused it to blow.

Pull the lint screen and check it. Is it actually clean, or has fabric softener residue built up on the mesh so it looks clean but water doesn't pass through when you run it under the tap? If water beads up on the screen, the screen itself is clogged and strangling airflow. Scrub it with dish soap and a brush.

Next, pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the exhaust duct from the back. Stick a flashlight inside and look for lint buildup. Most Arlington homes have duct runs of 10 to 25 feet to an exterior vent, and they accumulate lint rapidly. A good vent brush or a shop-vac will clear most of it.

Finally, go outside and check the exterior vent flap. It should open freely when the dryer runs. If it's jammed shut with bird nests or lint, that's your problem right there.

Check 3: The Gas Supply (Gas Dryers)

Seems obvious but check it. Is the gas valve behind the dryer fully open? Is the gas service to the house working (try your stove or water heater)? If you recently had gas work done anywhere in the house, someone may have shut off your dryer line and forgotten to reopen it.

Check 4: Igniter (Gas Dryers)

On a gas dryer, the igniter is a small ceramic element that glows orange to ignite the gas burner. Like any igniter, it weakens over time. You can sometimes hear or see it working: remove the lower access panel on the front of most gas dryers, start a timed dry cycle, and watch. The igniter should glow brightly within a minute, then the burner should light with a whoosh. If the igniter glows weakly, or not at all, that's your problem. Replacement is $30 to $60 and about 30 minutes of work on most models.

Check 5: Thermal Fuse (Both Types)

The thermal fuse is a safety device on the back of the blower housing that permanently breaks the heater circuit if the dryer overheats. Once blown, the dryer will still tumble but never heat. You need a multimeter to test it — continuity between the two terminals means it's good, no continuity means it's blown. The part is $10 to $20 but you MUST find and fix the cause of the overheat (usually a clogged vent) before replacing, or you'll just blow the new fuse.

What You Can't DIY Easily

Beyond these checks, the common causes of a no-heat dryer are:

• Heating element failure (electric) — a $40 to $100 part and a medium-difficulty replacement
• Failed high-limit thermostat (both types)
• Failed cycling thermostat (both types)
• Gas valve solenoid failure (gas)
• Control board failure (rare but possible)

All of these require the dryer cabinet open, a multimeter, and knowledge of which wire is which. If you're comfortable with that, the repair manuals for your specific model are widely available online.

Safety Reminder

Before any dryer work: unplug the electric dryer (or shut off the gas at the valve for a gas dryer). Dryers involve high voltage, gas, heat, and sharp sheet metal. Don't guess.

If you're in Arlington and you've checked the breaker, the lint screen and the vent without finding the problem, give Appliance Fix VA a call at (838) 201-3789. Most no-heat calls are diagnosed within 15 minutes and fixed the same visit.